Vol. 01A journal of land, people and spiritES
People / Places / Plants
Journal/Mezcal 101

Denomination of Origin and Regulation

What mezcal's denomination of origin protects, who certifies it, and what separates an artesanal from an ancestral mezcal.

WLM EditorialRead 6 min

A denomination of origin ties a product to a territory and to a way of making it. For mezcal, that tie is written into NOM-070-SCFI-2016, first published in Mexico's Official Gazette in 1994.

The territory

It covers whole states: Oaxaca, Zacatecas, Durango, Guerrero and San Luis Potosí. It also includes municipalities in Michoacán, Puebla, the State of Mexico, Tamaulipas, Sinaloa and Guanajuato. The list has grown over the years; Sinaloa is among the recent additions.

Who certifies

Certification is run by the Consejo Regulador del Mezcal (CRM), which checks compliance with the standard from agave to label.

The tools define the category

StageMezcalArtesanalAncestral
CookingPit, masonry or autoclave ovenPit or raised masonry ovenPit oven
MillingMallet, stone mill, shredder, mill train or diffuserMallet, stone mill or shredderMallet or stone mill
DistillationPot still, continuous still or columnDirect fire; copper or clay pots, wooden, copper or steel stillsDirect fire; clay or wooden pots

The classes

Blanco or joven; madurado en vidrio (over 12 months in glass); reposado (2 to 12 months in wood); añejo (over 12 months in wood, vessels under 1,000 litres); abocado con; and destilado con.

The standard doesn't say which mezcal is better. It says how it was made.WLM · EDITOR'S NOTE
Sources
  1. Arellano-Plaza, M., et al. (2022). Mezcal Production in Mexico: Between Tradition and Commercial Exploitation. Frontiers in Sustainable Food Systems, 6. www.frontiersin.org/articles/10.3389/fsufs.2022.832532/full
  2. NOM-070-SCFI-2016, Bebidas alcohólicas — Mezcal — Especificaciones. camtomx.com/normas/nom-070-scfi-2016